E210: Jen Wood - Climbing 9a, running and mindless ARCing
Summary
Hosts Aidan Roberts and Sam Pryor interview climber Jen Wood, who transitioned from competitive bouldering to outdoor sport climbing. She discusses her recent 9A ascent of Adam Ondra’s "Climb for Life" in Sicily and her AC+ project "Ice King" in Kilnsey. The episode covers her training shift toward endurance, the role of running in recovery, and the differences between competition and project climbing.
Topics discussed
Intro, Patreon, and community chat
Jen's competitive climbing career and era
Transition from comps to outdoor sport climbing
Training methods: running vs climbing
Running for recovery and energy management
Projecting Climb for Life in Sicily
The send: beta, pressure, and mindset
Exploring new areas and bolt safety
Tapering and finding future projects
Coaching at Lattice and training philosophy
Grading debates and closing thoughts
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