E219: Noah Wheeler - Board styling in Squamish, ego and sacking it all off to go play tennis
Summary
Noah Wheeler, the younger brother of pro climber Ben Wheeler, returns to the podcast to discuss his recent ascent of hard boulders like Burden of Dreams and his dominance in board climbing. The conversation covers his current month-long trip to Squamish with Tension, where he navigates the area's unique, slippery rock style by adapting his preferred frontal, board-style technique. They also explore the psychological aspects of climbing, including how to balance personal style with the demands of different crags and the ongoing process of building confidence and finger strength.
Topics discussed
Intro, Patreon tiers, and recap of previous episode
Discussion on recent ascents and the 'Mello' drama
Narrative importance of re-ascent vs. first ascent
Acclimating to Squamish style and skin issues
Public perception of Squamish vs. actual variety
Choosing board-style projects over local style
Why Squamish was chosen for the trip
Learning from strong climbers and forcing your style
Stylized climbing vs. well-rounded climbing
Body malleability and adapting to specific styles
Impact of Yosemite climbing on general development
Indoor training achievements vs. outdoor focus
Current board-style phase and finger strength
Ego, confidence, and climbing in strong groups
Social interaction and the meaning of climbing
Self-perception vs. public perception of pro status
Navigating discourse and general praise
Confidence development and overcoming shyness
Compartmentalizing ego and climbing ability
Future plans: stopping climbing and pivoting careers
Choosing tennis or pickleball over climbing
Comparing values in climbing vs. tennis
Objectivity of outdoor climbing vs. board constructs
Recovering from a ruptured pulley tendon
Compensating for lost pulley function
Dinner at Weather Spoons and food complaints
Setting crimp-style boulders on the board
Discussing specific moves on the Moon Board
Attempting hard moves for Ben
Movement coaching from Charlie and Austin
Receiving unsolicited advice from weaker climbers
Humbling oneself and avoiding burn-off
Ego effects and mood shifts in competition
Preference for non-competitive climbing
Hypothetical board competition scenarios
Brotherly dynamics and getting burnt off
Climbing with a hat and visibility issues
Oversimplifying actions for humor
Building technique on a base of finger strength
Promoting a new book from a college peer
Feasibility of returning to Finland for CC
Skin limitations on extremely hard projects
Overshadowed big boulders that are too cool
Beta discussions for a specific boulder
Flashing potential on crimpy boulders
Physical limitations: inability to fulcrum
Jimmy Webb as an early inspiration
Finding tricks vs. pure strength
Greatest accomplishment: Perky Pinky
Intuitive climbing style and body movement
Closing remarks and sign-off
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