E218: Michael Rosato - Tension, Board Lords, Bilbo vs Brad Pitt
Summary
Michael Rosado, media manager for Tension, joins hosts Sam Prior and Aidan Roberts to discuss the evolution of commercial climbing boards. They explore Rosado’s journey from the Southeast to Colorado and his role in Tension’s growth, including the development of the Tension Board Lords. The conversation highlights the cultural shift of standardized boards from mere training tools to a distinct climbing sub-genre, emphasizing community connection and accessibility. Rosado also shares insights on product design, the importance of collaborative development, and why he prefers the aesthetic and…
Topics discussed
Introduction and guest Michael Rosado
Podcast format and Patreon support
Moving to Colorado and rock climbing preferences
Board climbing vs outdoor climbing
Career path and founding Tension
Developing the TB1 and TB2 boards
History of standardized boards and community
Standardized boards as a climbing sub-genre
Training phases and board climbing styles
UK board culture and Moon Board origins
Custom boards and setting boulders
Ranking systems and grade accuracy
The 'Classic' designation and criticism
LEDs, gamification, and community trends
Impact of LEDs on climbing skills
Endurance training and volume sessions
Adjustable angles and hold performance
Gym management and board placement
Boardlords media and market growth
Athlete adoption and iconic boulders
Market competition and spray wall design
Material choices and board durability
Standardization challenges and future
Vintage holds and climber physiology
Other boards and closing remarks
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