E217: Jakob Schubert - Are the best climbers in the world lead climbers?
Summary
In this episode, hosts Aidan Roberts and Sam Pryor interview climbing legend Jakob Schubert, who reflects on his 67 World Cup medals and Olympic podiums. They discuss the physical toll of longevity, the genetic luck required to avoid injury, and the challenges of adapting to modern bouldering trends. The conversation also covers the evolution of competition formats, the impact of Eurosport on the climbing audience, and the divergence between competition and outdoor climbing skills.
Topics discussed
Introduction and Jakob Schubert's career highlights
Competitive schedule and the 2024 season
Longevity, specialization, and recent injuries
Training, genetics, and preparing for 2028 Olympics
Injury prevention and the role of natural strength
Adapting to changing competition formats and styles
Critique of bouldering trends and media coverage
Impact of paywalls and streaming on climbing interest
Divergence of competition and outdoor climbing skills
Olympic format changes and athlete storytelling
Correlation between 9c sport routes and bouldering
Logistics and difficulty of climbing 9c routes
Sunk cost fallacy and natural vs artificial holds
Future of sport climbing and the 9c+ barrier
Rest days, finger injuries, and Vegas trips
Balancing competition, projects, and content creation
Motivation, aging, and recovery in late career
Current location and the Google Eyes campus project
Beta changes on Mount Doom and Shaolin
Flashing hard boulders and mental preparation
Patreon questions and Japanese climbers' dominance
Listen ad-free on Castria