E213: Charlie Schreiber - New coaching program, goal adjudication and climbing when time-poor
Summary
Sam Pryor and Aidan Roberts welcome back coach Charlie Schreber to discuss his new Bouldering Progression Formula, a comprehensive 12-month training system. They explore Charlie’s intense coaching workload, his preference for mentoring over personal climbing, and his philosophy on educating athletes. The episode also features humorous hypotheticals and nostalgic stories about early climbing competitions.
Topics discussed
Introduction, host dynamics, and studio banter
Blockfest 2015 flashback and climbing board discussion
Hypothetical scenarios: coaching vs. climbing career
Coaching business model, scaling, and client communication
The Bouldering Progression Formula program details
Social media gaps, movement styles, and individual biomechanics
Grip techniques, coach-athlete trust, and feedback loops
Grade goals, journey vs. destination, and client values
Self-coaching pitfalls and the joy of fatherhood
Flow state, projecting vs. redpointing, and movement skills
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