#106 — Errances caucasiennes, avec Clara Arnaud
Summary
Clara Arnault recounts her solo journey across the Armenian plateau, traveling on foot alongside a young horse named Boy. She navigates the vast, melancholic landscapes using paper maps, relying on the legendary local hospitality to find lodging and guidance. Her route takes her from the Iranian border to Lake Sevan, where she encounters the harsh reality of the ongoing conflict with Azerbaijan. The episode highlights her deep bond with the horse and the profound human connections forged during this slow, immersive expedition.
Topics discussed
Introduction and podcast sponsorship
Clara Arnault's travel philosophy and route planning
Preparation, gear, and using maps for connection
Arrival in Armenia and meeting the blind permacultivist
Starting the walk and the psychological challenge of distance
Meeting Boyat, the young horse, in Tatev
Loading the horse and beginning the journey together
Navigating steep valleys and adapting to the horse's pace
Local reactions to a woman traveling with a horse
The sensory experience and tempo of walking with a horse
Landscape descriptions of the Armenian plateau
The incident with the mare and the loss of gear
Recovering the horse and gear after the incident
Arrival at Lake Sevan and its geopolitical context
Hospitality from a family affected by the Karabakh war
Police checkpoints and using a military contact for safety
Village-to-village hospitality and navigation
Navigating the city of Vanadzor with the horse
Descending into valleys and finding joy in the journey
Parting with Boyat and finding him a new home
Conclusion and production credits
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