Critics at Large | The New Yorker Critics at Large | The New Yorker

Critics’ Cult Classics: Hannah Goldfield on the Food World’s Secret Tastemakers

Aug 13, 2026 · 39m

Summary

On this episode of Critics at Large, host Nomi Fry interviews food writer Hannah Goldfield about the concept of cult classics in the culinary world. They discuss how ingredients like arugula and restaurants like In-N-Out Burger gain devoted, niche followings before potentially becoming mainstream. The conversation centers on Judy Rogers’ *Zuni Café Cookbook*, examining its detailed, technique-driven approach as a beloved but intimidating artifact for serious home cooks. They also touch on the shifting dynamics of food trends in the age of social media and the rise of accessible cooking guid…

Topics discussed

Sponsorships: Progressive, Monarch, and Hero Bread Introduction: Critics at Large and Guest Hannah Goldfield Defining 'Cult Classic' in Food and Culture Ingredients: Arugula, Trends vs. Cult Classics, and Scarcity Restaurants: In-N-Out, Jean Georges, and Finale Sponsorships: New Yorker Radio Hour, Wayfair, and LinkedIn Cookbooks: Mainstays vs. Rare Vintage Finds Rare Cookbooks: Martha Stewart's 'Entertaining' and eBay Prices The Zuni Cafe Cookbook: Judy Rogers and Roast Chicken Cooking Philosophy: Exactitude, Fun, and Fantasy Recipe Detail: Sand Dabs and the 'Motherly' Guide Sponsorships: New Yorker Radio Hour, Wayfair, and LinkedIn Accessibility: Time, Class, and the 'Harried Mom' Evolution of Cooking: Samin Nosrat and Sun-Dried Tomatoes Conclusion: Grape-Nuts and Show Credits Sponsorships: Uber Eats and Zocdoc
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