The It Bag
Oct 9, 2026 · 44m
Summary
This episode explores the history and economics of handbags, tracing their evolution from practical tools to status symbols. Guests Maya Kodomori and fashion historian Dana Thomas discuss the rise of "it bags," the luxury markup, and the gendered history of the purse. The narrative follows a DIY experiment where a friend hand-sews a Birkin replica to reveal the true labor costs behind luxury goods. The discussion concludes by examining how resale markets are eroding exclusivity and how new designs are redefining the bag as a gender-neutral, functional object.
Topics discussed
Introduction and Maya's first bag
Buying the first designer bag
The legend of the Hermès Birkin
How to get on the Birkin waitlist
Dylan's DIY Birkin experiment
Sponsors and break
Ursula K. Le Guin's Carrier Bag Theory
The rise of the 'It Bag' and Prada
Why bags are better investments than clothes
The economics of luxury handbags
Sourcing leather in the Garment District
The psychology of desire and hype
Coach and the history of accessible luxury
Transition to the feminization of bags
Sponsors and break
Dylan's bag construction process
Historical gendering of the purse
Purses as tools for women's autonomy
Sourcing hardware and saddle stitching
The cost of labor and resale market
Is the 'It Bag' dying?
Nur Abbas and deconstructing the bag
EDC culture and the bag as home
Finishing the bag and conclusion
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