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The It Bag

Oct 9, 2026 · 44m

Summary

This episode explores the history and economics of handbags, tracing their evolution from practical tools to status symbols. Guests Maya Kodomori and fashion historian Dana Thomas discuss the rise of "it bags," the luxury markup, and the gendered history of the purse. The narrative follows a DIY experiment where a friend hand-sews a Birkin replica to reveal the true labor costs behind luxury goods. The discussion concludes by examining how resale markets are eroding exclusivity and how new designs are redefining the bag as a gender-neutral, functional object.

Topics discussed

Introduction and Maya's first bag Buying the first designer bag The legend of the Hermès Birkin How to get on the Birkin waitlist Dylan's DIY Birkin experiment Sponsors and break Ursula K. Le Guin's Carrier Bag Theory The rise of the 'It Bag' and Prada Why bags are better investments than clothes The economics of luxury handbags Sourcing leather in the Garment District The psychology of desire and hype Coach and the history of accessible luxury Transition to the feminization of bags Sponsors and break Dylan's bag construction process Historical gendering of the purse Purses as tools for women's autonomy Sourcing hardware and saddle stitching The cost of labor and resale market Is the 'It Bag' dying? Nur Abbas and deconstructing the bag EDC culture and the bag as home Finishing the bag and conclusion
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